I’m experimenting with different 3D printed LED frames printed with ABS (see “Avoid Warping ABS on Ultimaker 2“). I frame multiple Adadfruit 8×8 NeoPixel WS2812B LED modules with 3D printed diffuser and frames to create color effects:
Diffuser with Frame Effect
I’m printing the frames and the inlays/diffusers in ABS so it can withstand the heat produced by the LEDs. In Autodesk I have different 3 models for the inlays and grids:
LED Diffuser Grids in Autodesk
For the frames I have created different ones depending the number of LED modules:
3D Models of Frames
To test the inlays I printed smaller test versions:
Small Test Matrix Inlays
The frames can be printed one after each other and then put togehter:
Printed ABS Frames
With this I can combine different frames with different inlays. Below is a black inlay inside a white frame, on two Adafruit 8×8 Matrix modules:
White Frame with Black Inlay
Below a one-unit and a two-unit frame version:
Black One-Unit and White Two-Unit
The black inlay makes a clear separation between pixels, good for displaying text:
Black Frame with Black Inlay
This works in the same with the white frame:
White Frame with Black Inlay Effect
In the above picture, the black inlay shields the light from the frame. I have created another black inlay which is open to the frame side:
Open Black Inlay
This creates a nice ‘glow into the frame’ effect:
Outside Glow Effect
Glow Effect with White Frame
The white inlay lets the LED color diffuse to the nearby grid areas. Below is a version with a white frame and an ‘open’ white inlay:
White Frame with White Open Inlay
This creates a nice diffused colors effect. Great for ambient effects, and text is still readable:
White Frame Diffused
Summary
3D Printing LED Frames is great fun and I can experiment with different visual effects. Changing frames and different inlay types create different effects. In a next step I plan to increase the number of modules for a 24×8 and a 24×16 Pixel.
The sources of this project are available on GitHub.
Happy Framing 🙂
MCU on Eclipse 
Amazing technology!
Just curious, how long does it take to ‘print’ these frames?
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yes, indeed amazing technology. Printing time depends on many factors, and is basically proportional to the amount of material used/printed. I just have printed another frame (15 cm long), and it took 48 minutes. Larger pieces take longer of course.
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I guess it takes more to draw the parts and to prepare things, so it seems ok, or at least bearable.
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Yes, the 3D modeling can be very time consuming, and I had to go through a learning curve. As with everything, it goes better and faster with more experience.
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You mention the heat from the LEDs. I assume you are already lighting the LEDs with a PWM signal to save power/heat? AFAIK, the eye responds to peak intensity rather than absolute power. Eyes are also very non-linear.
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The LEDs have a built-in constant current driver which can be set with a 8bit pwm value for each color (WS2812B). At full brightness every LED takes about 20 mA at 5V, so 60mA per pixel. So lots of current and lots of heat. I measured temperature around 55 degree C. Having it in frame without much cooling/airflow will not be good with using PLA. I did not face problems yet with ABS.
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And for the eye non-linearity, I’m using gamma correction too: this helps reduzing the current too.
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Hi Erich,
I need an advice. So i want an audio board to connect with KL25z. I need it for voice in (read) and voice out (play), with each for 30 sec record approx. I am thinking of using AUDIO PLAYBK BOARD- APR 33A3. Please advice if this ok? Or you suggest anything better?
Thanks so much
Sabiha
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Hi Sabiha,
have a look at the Adafruit Music Maker Shield which includes an audio in channel: https://mcuoneclipse.com/2014/11/22/tutorial-playing-mp3-files-with-vs1053b-and-frdm-board/
I hope this helps,
Erich
PS: I recommend to post questions like this either in a relevant post on such a subject or on the Q&A page (https://mcuoneclipse.com/qa/)
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